For centuries, gin has been defined by one essential ingredient: juniper berries. Whether it's a classic London Dry or a more modern variation, it is precisely the juniper that creates the recognizable aroma and taste that makes gin, gin.
But what happens to the taste when the climate changes?
A new scientific study from Heriot-Watt University in Scotland suggests that the increasing fluctuations in weather and precipitation – due to climate change – are already having a measurable effect on the chemical composition of juniper berries. And this means that the taste of gin also risks changing.
The role of weather in taste
The study compared juniper berries harvested in two different years – 2017 and 2018 – and showed clear differences in the content of volatile aromatic compounds, etc., which largely determine the aroma of gin during distillation.
2017 was a wet and cool year, and berries from this year contained, on average, 12% fewer aromatic compounds than berries harvested in the drier 2018. In particular, some of the compounds that contribute to the fresh, resinous, and slightly spicy profile were reduced in the wet years. Conversely, the concentration of heavier, fatter aromas increased.
In other words: the wetter the growing season – the less intense – and potentially unbalanced – the flavor profile in the finished product.
Climate as a new quality factor
The interesting thing is that the differences are not just about geography, but about year-to-year variation. In other words, it is not enough to know where the berries come from – you also need to know what the weather has been like, and how the berries have been dried and stored.
For distillers, this means a new kind of uncertainty. Where previously one could rely on a specific supplier from Southern Europe to deliver a consistent taste, extreme weather conditions can now mean that berries from the same region have vastly different aromatic profiles from year to year.
What does this mean for the future of gin?
Climate change suggests that producers may have to rethink some of the assumptions that have hitherto formed the basis for both recipes and supplier choices. This could involve: an increased need for sensory control of each harvest, adjustment of recipes and batch distillations to ensure taste consistency, and greater transparency regarding raw materials and their origin.
At the same time, it also opens up new conversations between producers and consumers. What does it mean for a gin to taste "as usual" in a world where nature's balance is changing?
It may sound like a technical detail, but changes in the weather have a concrete impact on the taste in your glass. When juniper berries are affected by heat, rain, and drought, the volatile aromatic compounds – and thus the character we associate with gin – change.
Climate change is not just something we feel in nature. It also affects taste.
If you can't get enough and want to delve even deeper, you can read more here:
Heriot-Watt University’s International Centre for Brewing and Distilling (ICBD
“Sources of variance in the volatile contribution of juniper to gin” - Link
